Je Suis Le Loup
It started with the siren song of meshtastic – the open source, off grid communications networks for nerds, hackers and protestors. Next thing I knew I was cramming for the HAM test. Then after receiving my call sign from the FCC (KR4NAA) I needed a radio.
So you are peacefully playing your new 3D printed drone flute and are on the edge of transcendence when suddenly the note goes flat and nirvana is lost. Not to fear. This video (which is in desperate need of a new title page) will quickly teach you how to adjust your sound block and get you back on the path to enlightenment.
Finished the dry boxes for the 3D printer today and dropped them into the AMS. The center box has a humidity gauge that slightly cracked the box upon insertion.
Lesson learned: Use PETG instead of PLA for more utilitarian prints, especially things involving outside metal components.
Printed second flute today for Caelin. I opted to go for all black then used leather to wrap the middle hole and sound plates. Nailed the glue ratio but need to work on evenly cutting the leather strips. I named it Shinobi after the 1987 Ninja video game of the same name. I bet I can find a copy for the raspberry pie emulator.
Today I finished the initial 3d print of the D# drone flute (shown on the right with a Blue Bear F# flute for comparison). It took around 6 hours to print, with the print split into 2 pieces which I joined with gorilla glue. I stuck the sound plates on with one of Jen’s hair ties and was surprised that I was able to quickly get it to play. The sound is definitely “thin” in comparison to the larger wooden flute (which still smells like woodfire from where ol’ Blue Bear finished the holes). It is also harder to get the sound plate in the sweet spot without a chamfer to use as an index point. I ended up blowing on the mouthpiece and moving the sound plate until I found the tone. Once properly positioned, it was interesting to see how much further forward it was than on the Blue Bear Flute.
Lessons learned: use less glue